Pan Ji

 

"Puzhehei"

 

　　 I have always had a dream, when I can go to such a place, where I can think about everything and don't think about anything, look at the scenery without distraction, talk dreaming freely, and live a life like a fairy.

 

　　 On that day, I received a letter from Guo Shaolong, the chairman of the Yunnan Qiubei Federation of Literary and Art Circles. An invitation letter for the "First Chinese Writer Puzhehei Leisure Tour Pen" was like a dawn, which gave me hope that my dream would come true. Puzhehei, a fairyland hidden deep in the mountains, clear waters, and scented lotuses in southeastern Yunnan, is not the famous poet and deputy editor-in-chief of "Dianchi" magazine Lei Pingyang called a dreamlike and fairy-like life A place! The place where the gods live is often in a remote depth, and Puzhehei is no exception. Taking a bus from Kunming, the spring city, all the way up and down, after a full seven-hour trek, I finally reached Qiubei County in Wenshan Prefecture, southeast Yunnan, and really started my dream journey.

 

　　Puzhehe, to be precise, is a famous scenic spot in Yunnan with karst lakes, karst caves, solitary peaks, ethnic customs and human resources, about 13 kilometers away from Qiubei County. The hospitable Qiu Bei Federation of Literary and Artistic leaders sent a skilled driver Zhang to pick up the station. To be honest, before I came, I really didn’t know what the weird place name "Puzhehei" meant? In the car, I couldn't wait to ask the hospitable teacher Zhang, and I realized that "Puzhehei" is the Sani language of the Yi nationality. As "a place with plenty of fish and shrimp". It is said that there is another more poetic explanation, which can be extended to "a place of growth and happiness". A place that can grow and be happy is what a good place is, which is endlessly dreaming and looking forward to. I was reminiscing about what Teacher Zhang said, when the off-road vehicle suddenly turned and a green suddenly appeared in front of my eyes. I was so excited, I said "Oh" in my heart, thinking that the car was out of direction and drove into a huge lotus pond. But the off-road vehicle is like a fast horse running off the rein, without closing its hooves, and it continues to run forward in the endless green lotus bush. Teacher Zhang looked surprised when he saw me and told me that there were wild lotuses known as living fossils on both sides. The car passed through the green, and the lotus flowers on both sides looked like a beautiful beauty, welcoming me, a visitor from afar. Maybe lotus is not rare in our Jiangnan water town, but it can be said to be very rare on the plateau over 1,400 meters above sea level.

 

When you come to Puzhehei, you will be greeted by the exquisite landscape and pastoral scenery, with blue sky and white clouds; green mountains and clear water; green lotus, red flowers...Here, there are beautiful sky in Lhasa, mountains better than Guilin, and clear sky. There are more lotuses in the water of the West Lake than in the south of the Yangtze River. It really is a well-deserved wonderland on earth. That night, under the careful arrangement of the leaders of Wenshan Prefecture Federation of Literary and Art Circles, Qiubei County Propaganda Department and County Literary and Art Federation, we went to an ancient village called Xianrendong where Sani people lived. The beautiful natural environment, the harmony of water and sky, the original folk customs, especially the Sani song and dance performed for us, opened my eyes. The most memorable thing is the love song duet, “Sing if you want to sing, and go down to the river if you want to fish. As long as the younger sister and brother are right, the sun goes down the hillside.” What excites me the most is to ignite it by myself. Have a bonfire and learn to dance with local Sani villagers who can sing and dance. Soon, the performance entered the party, the party turned into a carnival, everyone learned the unique dance of the Sani people and twisted their waists. In such an enthusiastic scene, everyone was immersed in it, so relaxed and relaxed, and I was like a different person, jumping and humming to the beat of the music. Suddenly, the carnival crowd was in chaos. I felt that my face had been wiped off. I turned my head and saw a Qianqianyu hand dangling over my shoulder. I saw that there was a young Sani girl behind me. sister. Seeing the people present fleeing and smiling, I knew it was wrong, and when I touched my face with my hand, I found that there was a lot of black dust on my face. I don’t know if it’s resentment or joy, I said cruelly in my heart: You bad girl, let me wipe it back! I suddenly woke up, this may be the "wiping face" that I have heard, and I quickly went to the campfire to find black dust . But when I came back with a handful of black ash, the little sister Sani had already swam into the ocean of joy like a fish.

 

　　 The Sani people’s "wiping face" is said to have a history of more than 1,000 years. It is a ritual for defeating demons and transforming good luck. In the past, people used pot soot not only to smear people's faces, but also to smear people's whole bodies. The more flowers and the darker they were, the more auspicious they became. This reminds me of a joke that the famous writer Bian Yufang said when he was playing in Puzhehei. He said that Puzhehei means "all ordinary workers are black." Yes, such an explanation seems too straightforward and funny, but it is not unreasonable. The Sani people advocate black, and the Sani boys are proud of calling Ahei. In the movie "Ashima" that everyone knew back then, isn't the lover of the heroine Ashima also called Ahei? Suddenly I have another interpretation of the name Puzhehei. Black is also a kind of beauty!

 

　　 A bird song in the early morning awakened me from the sweet dream of last night and transferred me to another new dream. Puzhehei in the morning light, the air is particularly fresh, walking on the tree-lined path, it feels like entering a huge natural oxygen bar. On the way, I met Zhang Qingguo, the executive editor of "Dianchi" who had returned from morning exercises. He also had the title of Vice Chairman of the Yunnan Writers Association. This famous writer who is good at writing novels, in my mind, is like a dream world The master who came, he gave me selfless advice in the creation of novels. When talking about novel creation that day, he said, "The essence of novels is to remove the surface of life and reveal the essence of life." Teacher Zhang Qingguo is both a good editor and a master of novels. I remember his novella "Golden Painter" published in "People's Literature" in 2007. Once it was published, it attracted attention and heated discussions in the industry. This is a good work that can make people remember and think for a long time. The author tells us in the narrative that twelve days of physical life time is cleverly intercepted, even in the secretive dark and dangerous life, there is still no shortage of tenderness and dreams.

 

　　The dream-seeking journey continues. In Puzhehei, the most distinctive style is the water fight in the lake full of lotus and water and sky. First, prepare weapons such as water guns and ladles, and then put on a "bullet armor" for those who are afraid of water. Groups of five or six people, and then set off from Pu Caotang Wharf in a small leaf boat. As soon as the boat left the dock, the ship-to-ship battle began. That day, I was in a group with Lei Pingyang's son Xiaopang. For this water fight, he had been preparing for this water fight for many days, and he was waiting a bit manic. Therefore, as soon as the boat set off, he stood on the bow, commanding the "brothers" and raising his gun to shoot at the "enemy". Han Xu, the executive deputy editor-in-chief of "Everyone", was hit by a shuttle bullet fired from Xiao Fatty's spear and almost fell into the lake. The battle was extremely fierce, and the people on the "enemy" ship were not to be outdone. The two sides used all the "weapons" on the ship and almost never stopped during the 5 kilometers of waterway. The sound of help, shouts, laughter, and crackling of splashing water combined into a symphony of water battles, as if the melody of Beethoven's "Hero" echoed on the emerald lake. The battle lasted for more than two hours and finally came to an end, and the boat continued to move forward in the sparkling lake. At this moment, the sun showed a smiling face from the clouds. I followed its gaze and looked at it. The scenery in front of me was so beautiful: the distant mountains are like beautiful flowers, the nearby ridges and green mountains, the lake shining, the clear water, the village is wild, and the scenery is infinite. Facing this quiet and beautiful scene, it seemed that I heard another symphony by Beethoven, "The Pastoral". The boating man proudly told me that the crystal clear lakes here are a handful of crystal-clear pearls rushing from southeast Yunnan from the source of the Pearl River and scattered in Puzhehei. The boat finally docked, and Chairman Shaolong saw that I was still unfulfilled, and he said: We Puzhehei, we have such a Songkran Festival almost every day of the year, and you are welcome to come again next time! There is a Songkran Festival every day? I did not say anything. , But he didn't believe it, thinking he was talking in a dream. Back at the place of residence, I met Ma Yanlin, the editorial director of "Frontier Literature", and asked her why she didn't go to the water fight? She said that she came here one winter to fight the water fight and she "surrendered" so she didn't dare to fight again. Hearing what she said, I felt ashamed to be with Chairman Shaolong. Suddenly I realized that this is Yunnan where spring is all year round, and the so-called winter must be very warm.

 

The dream-seeking journey is about to end. In just a few days in Puzhehei, in addition to viewing the scenery, enjoying the lotus, playing in the water, eating fish, drinking wine, and tasting spicy food, it is more to have a conversation with my inner self, or Said, brewing the next dream. The night before I left, I went to the spacious lawn by the lake and let off a sky lantern. I hope it will bring my future dreams, in the fairy-tale night sky of Puzhehei, surrounded by stars, flying higher and farther...